Zadar Bars

The evening follows the light here. Tables fill on the squares of the Old Town from six, the waterfront takes over as the sun goes down behind Ugljan, and the Sea Organ end of the Riva is where a good part of the city ends up watching it. Half the places serving beer at nine were serving coffee at nine in the morning, which is why the terraces look the same at both ends of the day.

The drinking is spread rather than concentrated. Varos holds the neighbourhood bars where locals outnumber visitors, the peninsula squares carry the mixed crowd, and Borik and Puntamika serve the beach trade. Local beer, Croatian wine by the glass, rakija and Maraschino cover most orders. Nothing runs particularly late inside the walls, since people live above the bars; the later end of the night moves out of the Old Town.