Zadar Pizzerias

Croatia takes pizza seriously along this coast and Zadar is no exception: the base is thin, the oven is usually wood fired, and a large pizza costs a fraction of a fish dinner. On the peninsula the ovens are wedged into small rooms in the lanes off Kalelarga, and the counter moves fastest just before the evening walk begins. Slices to carry away are common in the streets near the forum, which suits a day that is running late.

Out at Borik and Puntamika the pizzerias are bigger, feed the campsite and hotel trade, and give families the room the Old Town cannot. Toppings follow the local pantry more than the Italian rulebook: prosciutto from the Dalmatian hinterland, sheep cheese from Pag, anchovies, capers and rocket. Most of these kitchens run straight through the afternoon when everything else is shut, which makes a pizzeria the reliable answer to a late lunch.